There’s plenty of reasons why you should visit Graz. It has a distinctive atmosphere that marks it out from other Austrian cities, yet you most probably haven’t heard of it outside of Vienna, Salzburg and Innsbruck. Here’s what to do in Graz to uncover one of Austria’s best-kept secrets.

As modern and creative as it is old and traditional, Graz is a city of arts and modern culture displaying 900 years of living history from the Middle Ages to the 21st Century. It emits a strong Mediterranean vibe, making you feel more south of Austria than you actually are.

There are cities where you can just feel the abundance of sights as soon as you step foot in them, mainly due to sensory overload. It’s in the preserved UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site old-world charms and deep-rooted history where Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque structures intertwine. It’s in the trendy new design and 

The modern persona of Graz, which helped give it the coveted titles of UNESCO City of Design, European Cultural Capital and Austria’s Culinary Capital is just as worthy of your attention in order to understand it as a whole. While there is a mesh to the old and new parts of Graz, the River Mur neatly cuts the more obvious parts of old and new Graz in two. Which makes for easier navigation for visitors wanting to delve deeper into its two distinct personalities. Locals see this ‘south’ side of the city as more ‘playful’ and the contrast between the two is welcomed and celebrated.

The second-largest city in Austria and the state capital of Styria, Graz is rather proud of its distinction, although it has somehow always remained off the radar compared to other Austrian cities. If you want to explore a lesser-known destination of Austria, this is your city and this is how to uncover it all. 

Things to See in Graz – A History Guide 

Graz UNESCO World Heritage Historical Centre

This is mainly found in the compact Historical Centre – an easy to navigate, but chock full of sites area melded together in a small space by a hill and a park. From townhouses painted with old murals to romantic courtyards, open baroque squares and winding cobblestoned streets; it is a living history walking tour. I was able to trace the city’s story from its early days as an old town with a fortress, through to the Imperial years of the late 1400s and beyond, to the modern cultural, art and design foundations that have been added to the mix.

Herrengasse, which is the main thoroughfare of the city, and the adjacent main square, Graz Hauptplatz are at the very heart of the city and central to navigation. Herrengasse is lined with modern stores and bars, yet also with palaces, alleyways to grand squares and preserved historical buildings.

Look out for the “Painted House” at number 7, adorned with Baroque frescos in 1742 and the “Luegghaus” façade on the corner of Sporgasse, which is now home to the Swarovski store.

The square is marked by a statue of Archduke Johann of Austria (the “Styrian Prince”) who helped develop Graz with various initiatives and grand visions over the course of 50 years. It was the city’s very first market place during the medieval era, and is now dominated by the magnificent 19^th century Rathaus, which was built around the houses people refused to sell to make way for it!

The mix of Renaissance, Gothic and Baroque architecture gave Graz the title of “the best-preserved city centre of Central Europe”. It’s a city where detail is in abundance, from the rooftops and delicate balconies to the old establishments that line the pavements and the figurine details and frescos. Be sure to catch the performance when the Glockenspiel strikes at 11 am, 3 pm and 6 pm.

There is a historic centre walking tour that is run by Graz Tourist Information, which starts at its location on Herrengasse 16. This is one way, to have an introduction to the history of the city while viewing the most revered facades, courtyards and romantic squares. Alternatively, pick up a map from the Tourist Office and follow the marked route.

The ‘Altstadt Tram’ is a free tram that runs through the city centre, between Jakominiplatz and Hauptplatz, although walking is a better option to dig out all the small details.

Graz Italian Style Architecture

What you immediately notice about Graz is the centuries-old streets awash with an air of Italian charm that passes from the alfresco filled streets to avenues that lead you to the squares, archways and townhouse facades in earthly shades.

My highlights of bygone Graz include the impressive Italian Renaissance arcades of the Landhaus Courtyard (where today the Styrian regional parliament meets), the stonemasonry masterpiece that is the dizzying double spiral staircase at the entrance to the Burg, and the cluster of magnificent buildings that are the Cathedral and Mausoleum commissioned by Kaiser Ferdinand III and Kaiser Ferdinand II in Italian style.

Visit the Most Romantic Street in Graz

Sporgasse ended up being one of my favourite streets that I walked the length of over and over again. It’s considered one of the most romantic streets in the city. It’s here you’ll find the oldest parish church, the oldest courtyard in the city, some of the more exquisite building facades and the quirky with their own legends (check out the Turk statue on Palais Saurau at number 25).

Historical and Traditional Eats

Want to try an old traditional hangout in the city? Head to Frankowitsch, framed over the years for its open-faced sandwiches that you order with a “Pfiff” (very small glass) of beer.

I tried to get a spot at Café König, but it’s small and a popular place for the old traditional coffee-house vibes. This café, in particular, dates back to 1918 and is decked out in dark wood, with coffee pastries and a warm, family business atmosphere.

For a panoramic city view, the rooftop of the Kastner Und Öhler department store is also said to be a favourite terrace hotspot. It is well worth a look inside for the ornate golden pillars that decorate the store itself.

You can also indulge at the former Habsburg bakery (the Hofbäckerei Edegger-Tax) whose wooden façade topped with a double-gilded eagle retains the same imperial decadence and offers some of the traditional sweet offerings as they were back then.

 

Climb the Graz Schlossberg for Clocktower Views

Yet one of the best views of all, and to take in the famous sweep of orange rooftops (with the modern blue bulbous ‘Friendly Alien’ Kunsthaus modern art museum reminding you of the dominance of the new, trendy Graz), head up to the city’s centrepiece – the Schlossberg.

I took the funicular (and climbed down the 260 steps of the Schlossbergstiege) to the 473-metre high Schlossberg for the best views of the entire city.

This green platform of trees and gardens was once the site of a small fort, giving Graz its name, meaning “little castle” before it was extended to a larger Renaissance fortress that was later destroyed by Napoleon. Bastions and an old gate still remain, although people flock up here to stand next to the 28-metre high Clock Tower, the traditional and most well-known symbol of Graz.

Graz is defined by its history, which lives on in every street, pocket and hillside. But that’s just one half of its cultural story… its modern persona is just as worthy of your attention in order to understand it as a whole.

Things to Do in Graz to See the Modern Side 

My time in the trendy part of Graz started by checking into the Wiesler Hotel, on the other side of the River Mur from the historical old town. The lobby bears an artwork of jagged wood – a beam puzzle art installation by Austrian artist, Clemens Hollerer. It’s a sister of the Hotel Daniel brand, that’s been making its ultra-cool mark in downtown Vienna (although it was first in Graz).

The hotel lies on the same stretch of Grieskai street that’s home to the city’s revered modern landmark of the Kunsthouse (modern art museum, built in 2003) and affectionately known locally as the “Friendly Alien”. You can’t miss it, and since I was obsessed with this architectural bubble before I even arrived, it was the perfect location. Not to mention that as a coffee freak, the hip Tribeka coffee shop was also on the same stretch of funky straße (road). It’s here that Graz’s younger generation hang out, and who are quite possibly living in the adjacent Lend neighbourhood.

This side of the river is packed with the ultra-cool and for those looking for contemporary immersion in a historical city. The creative neighbourhood of Lend starts in the area around Mariahilferplatz, whose history dates back to the 19^th century when immigrants from Yugoslavia and Turkey settled here, bringing together multiple cultures, cuisines, communities and commerce.

It’s a natural trend for the creative minded to be attracted to the underdog areas; the gritty and unknown. Today Lend is a mix of eco initiative stores, trendy eateries that reflect the cultural mix of the area or where you can gorge on traditional Backhendl with a bit more chic, outdoor markets, and a regenerated old red-light district area (the area specifically between the Kunsthaus and Lendplatz).

In the evening small clusters of casual pubs and urbanite bars, and late-night foodie spots like ‘Brot und Spiele’, give it a homely and ‘in the know’ neighbourhood feel. The hipster bar, Kabuff is a play on the areas past, meaning ‘no brothel’ in Styrian dialect.

The charity design shops are at the very heart of this creative side of Graz, selling all kinds of upcycled items from fashion, jewellery and homeware. Yet the focus on the design projects is that they focus on youth employment and the involvement of young locals, which means when you shop here, you are a part of a full-circle initiative.

There are pockets of street art, buildings painted in a myriad of colour and pattern, a church (St.Andrä) that combines religion with contemporary art, and repurposed old spaces that make for super geil (cool) hangouts. It has been given a new lease of life from what was once a place seen as discarded and unkempt. What’s exciting is that it is still expanding and adding colour and life to an area that was once on the sidelines of old, historical Graz.

The fact that this area is built on multi-culturalism and thrives on this community spirit is of great importance. The annual Grieskram food and performance festival brings everyone together and the socio-cultural project, Annenviertal encourages Graz locals to take part in community activities to drive interest and awareness in new business and neighbourhood initiatives in order to keep the area on the map. As a visitor, you are just as a much a part of keeping this side of the Mur River alive.

That’s not to say that this ultra-hip Graz separates itself from the old. It simply compliments it.

While the ledges of the Schlossberg looks down over this area, this side of the river looks up. In the Kunsthaus, one of its ‘nozzle’ windows points in a different direction to all of the others – for an old to the modern facing view of the famous Bell Tower on the Schlossberg.

The River, a vein of the old city, is connected with modern structures such as the Murinsel (a café and exhibition space) that sits right in the water with footbridges that link to both sides of the bank, and the Mur Promenade (which you can access via stairs leading down from the main Erzherzog Johann Brücke) with a waterside bar and spot for relaxation. The brave attempt river surfing in the strong currents, which you might be lucky to spot on a good day.

That’s not to say all of contemporary and cool Graz is contained on one side, either.

Artworks have made their way across the river, blending with the historic old streets, like the blue ring in Schlossbergplatz, and sporadic structures on other squares, like the lampshade metalwork I found. The Joanneumsviertal cultural centre is a funky glass structure nestled within the old town streets. Trendy hangouts like Ducks Coffee Shop on Rabergasse and Albert’s bar on Herrengasse are well-established new haunts in the historical centre.

Then you have independent stores like first package-free organic grocery store, Das Gramm that is practically next door to the old chocolate making shop. Not to mention when the sun goes down and the old Graz hums with heavy metal and Indie music bars like Tick Tack and Guest Room, DJ spots like Café Mitte and underground clubs like Club Q.

Graz also hosts plenty of cultural festivals throughout the year too, giving all the more reason to come back after you’ve explored its history and hipster hangouts. Graz hosts all manner of creative festivals annually, including the Austrian Film Festival in March, the electronic music Springfestival in May, and the Steirischer Herbst contemporary art festival in October takes over the city with everything from visual art, theatre and political debates.

Graz’s modern history defines it just as much as its 900 years past. Crossing the River Mur and exploring a whole new side of Graz that lies right behind the ‘Friendly Alien’ landmark completes the picture as to the city’s origins, cultural diversity and artistic heart.

Extra Trendy Things to Do in Graz

• Arnold Schwarzenegger fans can sip a coffee in a room dedicated to him in Andy Warhol style at the Grand Café Kaiserfeld. The ‘Governor’s Room’ is filled with portraits of the Hollywood star and Graz’s famous son. Nearby Thal is his homeplace where you can visit his birth house with is now a museum, where you can pose with a giant statue.
• The Parish Church on Herrengasse, while known for its Baroque Tower, includes a reminder to the cities darker days, featuring modern art stained glass windows, one which includes a portrait of Hitler and Mussolini watching the crown of thorns coronation of Jesus.

• For a taste of the Styrian craft beer scene, head to café bar Vintage.
• For the best Backhendl indulgence (half Styrian chicken in crispy breadcrumbs) head to The Steirer on Belgiergasse, pictured above. The restaurant also has the largest selection of regional wines.

• Return to the ‘Friendly Alien’ at night, when it becomes a light-art installation.
• Local top picks for the Lend neighbourhood hangouts include brunch favourite Blendend, Rangoon for cocktails and Lotte (a smokers bar). We enjoyed taking random strolls and testing all manner of hideouts!
• The weekly farmers market takes place in Lend Monday-Saturday in Lendplatz, until 1 pm

Check Out Our Video From Graz:

GRAZ | Austria’s Southern Beauty from Emiliano Bechi Gabrielli

Things to Know About Graz

• Graz is close to Vienna and is well-connected to the capital (and all other major Austrian cities) via the ÖBB rail network. From Vienna, the train journey is approximately 2 hours and 30 minutes. Graz is also seen as a ‘sister city’ with Slovenia’s Ljubljana, which surprising similarities (as I will write about later).

• Graz is a very easy city to explore on foot, which is why an all-encompassing city card isn’t necessarily needed.

• Grab a copy of the “Graz. Made by locals for Young Travellers” map. It’s detailed without being boring, and full of insider hints and tips, alongside the very best hangouts, from coffee to quirky themed bars.

• Should you wish to take public transport, a 1-hour ticket (valid from the tram and bus) is €2.20 and a 24 hours ticket is €5, which is much better value.

• If you are a museum fan, the Joanneum 24 hours ticket grants admission to all exhibitions under the ‘Universalmusuem Joanneum’, which includes the Kunsthaus and Schloss Eggenberg (just outside of the city centre).

Where to Stay in Graz

My time in the trendy part of Graz started by checking into the Wiesler Hotel, on the other side of the River Mur from the historical old town. The wooden beam artwork is the first thing you will notice as you enter the reception, alongside the mural in the restaurant lounge. Attention to artistic detail is what marks this hotel out on the ‘other side’ of the River Mur from the old town and is next to the ‘Friendly Alien’ Kunsthaus museum. It is a sister brand to the super-smart Hotel Daniel. Rooms are light and minimal design, with some rooms overlooking the river.

Further Information on Graz

• Check out the Graz Tourism Information website.
• For further information about planning your trip around Austria visit the Austria Tourism website, where you can also keep up to date with all my adventures.

This guide to Graz things to do was researched as a combination of a ‘Euro City Trip’ project to highlight the city as a ‘cool neighbour’ to Slovenia’s Ljubljana (they have a lot in common!). It was also part of my ‘Year In Austria’ project, where I set out on a city-hopping tour at the start of summer to uncover the urban hubs to show you how not all Austrian cities are the same.

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